All Posts By J.M. Hirsch

J.M. Hirsch is the national food editor for The Associated Press. He is the author of the recent cookbook High Flavor, Low Labor: Reinventing Weeknight Cooking. He also blogs at LunchBoxBlues.com.

Mirin — Off the Beaten Aisle by in How-to, Recipes, September 22nd, 2011

Mirin is all about getting sauced. Because that’s where Japanese cooking wine really shines — in sauces. But first, a misconception. The wretched American product known as “cooking wine” probably has you reluctant to try anything similar. Relax and prepare for a delicious discovery. They are nothing alike. Though once sipped similar to sake, todayRead more »

Halloumi — Off the Beaten Aisle by in How-to, Recipes, September 15th, 2011

You’ll probably feel pretty stupid calling it “squeaky cheese,” but as soon as you take a bite you’ll understand why it makes sense. Sometimes called Greek grilling cheese, halloumi is just that — a dense cheese that holds its shape and won’t drip through the grates when grilled. And when you chew it? It makesRead more »

Pomegranate Molasses — Off the Beaten Aisle by in How-to, Recipes, September 8th, 2011

Are you about over the pomegranate trend yet? If so, you might want to revisit it one more time. But this time we aren’t talking about chugging the juice or turning it into fancy cocktails. This time it’s pomegranate molasses, a thick, syrupy concentrate that is sweet and tart and as delicious as it sounds.Read more »

Jicama — Off the Beaten Aisle by in How-to, Recipes, September 1st, 2011

Imagine crossing a monster potato with a water chestnut. That’s jicama for you. And while not much to look at on the outside, the crisp, crunchy texture and clean, sweet flavor inside make this veggie worth seeking out. First, the basics. Jicama (pronounced HICK-a-MA) is a tuber — a big brown round root. A relativeRead more »

Honeycomb — Off the Beaten Aisle by in How-to, Recipes, August 25th, 2011

It’s time to think beyond the bear bottle. Because honey comes in way more forms than just plastic squirt bottles. My favorite? Honey in the comb, pure and simple. And yes, the comb is totally safe to eat. People have been keeping bees — and eating the honeycomb — for several thousand years. But first,Read more »

How to Use Berbere — Off the Beaten Aisle by in How-to, Recipes, August 19th, 2011

Imagine the best Southern barbecue — cooked up in northern Africa. That’s what this week’s ingredient — the Ethiopian seasoning blend known as berbere — tastes like. And it’s as good as it sounds. Berbere is the flavor backbone of Ethiopian cooking, a cuisine built around heavily seasoned meats and stews served with a spongyRead more »

Off the Beaten Aisle: Anchovies by in How-to, Recipes, August 11th, 2011

If anchovies gross you out, know this: Compared to what people ate before there were anchovies, they’re practically cake and ice cream. Because until about the 16th century there were no anchovies as we know them today. That is, small silvery fish that are boned, salt-cured and packed in oil. Instead, there was garum —Read more »

Off the Beaten Aisle: Rainbow Chard by in Recipes, August 5th, 2011

It’s a beet, minus the root. Which doesn’t make sense. Except it does. Because it’s chard, one of a growing number of common yet often overlooked greens lurking at your grocer. Chard — sometimes called Swiss chard or rainbow chard (when it sports brightly colored stalks) — really is a relative of the beet. ButRead more »

Off the Beaten Aisle: Red Curry Paste by in Recipes, July 28th, 2011

It’s red, but it isn’t red hot. And that’s why it’s the sort of curry the average American is going to love. I’m talking about red curry paste, one of a literal rainbow of intensely flavorful Southeast Asian seasonings. To be clear, curry pastes are not the same as the curry powders most people know,Read more »

Off the Beaten Aisle: Capers by in Recipes, July 21st, 2011

This week, it’s flower power. Because that’s exactly what capers are and do: They are the flower buds of a wild bush that lend serious flavor power to your cooking. Our story starts several thousand years ago, when capers moved from simple would-be blossoms to culinary colossus. That’s when the people of the Mediterranean realizedRead more »

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