The restaurant critic Jonathan Gold may have won a Pulitzer for criticism (the first food writer to do so), but I prefer to think of him as LA’s poet laureate. Check out the profile of Gold in this week’s New Yorker (subscription only) and you’ll understand why. Or better yet click on over to theRead more »

Am pretty sure the latter was posted a few months ago, but is there a new trend I’m not aware of, of discussing food and wine in Radiohead terms? From Jarrett Wrisley‘s piece in today’s Atlantic Food Channel: And this: “Black pepper, cumin, soil and leather. Elegant. A hint of fruit, but not a lot…Cherries.Read more »

So I am sure there are all kinds of merits to goat-powered crop control, and I am sure it’s environmentally friendly, and they’re completely adorable, and all of that — but even if the entire industry didn’t exist, someone would have to invent it, if only to be able to have a company named “Rent-a-ruminant.”[via]Read more »

This arrived at my house yesterday — presented without comment: Rupa Bhattacharya, Culinary Writer

So much win: Everyone looks glum. “I must console myself,” Marcella says. She orders a Jack Daniel’s. [via] Rupa Bhattacharya, Culinary Writer

In another of a series of fantastic food articles in Salon, Alex van Buren sums up what I’ve been trying to articulate over the last couple days and haven’t been able to — that sure, it’s an easy cheap shot to call Gourmet elitist and out of touch, but one thing overlooked by all theRead more »

This morning I’m imagining the FN Library without Gourmet Magazine. From the stacks, I’m removing James Beard and M.F.K. Fisher; Jane Grigson and Roy Andies de Groot; Edna Lewis and John T Edge and Ruth Reichl and on and on, all the authors who at one time or other called Gourmet home. I’m imagining aRead more »

Gael Greene breaks out the wayback machine, reposting her original 1979 review of the legendary, and  sadly-now-closed, Chanterelle: From the a la carte list, a splendid mille-feuille of gently poached oysters spiked with garlic and anchovy in cream, and perfectly cooked chicken in a tasty sauce scented with morels and chives. Ripe pears in a teaRead more »

Here’s a picture of the machine that dips all the bottles at Maker’s Mark: Actually, there is no machine; every single bottle is dipped by hand. Dave Mechlowicz, Culinary Purchasing Manager

To all afflicted by the unique claustrophobia of small kitchens, from a Bogota fritangeria comes a design solution: Nice, though nicer still in red: The shop pictured specializes in fritanga, a Bogotano specialty akin to Brazilian churrasco and Ecuadoran parrillada, which is to say it’s a mixed grill of sorts. The difference being twofold: inRead more »